Some posts on this site contain affiliate links, meaning if you book or buy something through one of these links, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you!). You can read my full disclosure policy here.
Hong Kong is home to some of the world’s best dining establishments. With 62 Michelin Star restaurants, there is brilliant high end dining to be found in the city. But that’s not the experience I like to seek out when traveling (okay, maybe once in awhile for a special occasion). Instead, I much rather look for the hole in the wall, where the locals go to eat. That is exactly what we did, but I soon found out there’s a bit of a learning curve to it.
I grew up in a Cantonese household. The things I ate as a child are aligned with much of the Hong Kong diet. Vancouver also has the great fortune of having a large Chinese population allowing easy access to cheap and tasty Chinese food. While I knew what I was getting myself into in terms of food and the dishes, but I really had not much frame of reference for the actual experience itself.
Inside a typical Hong Kong Style Cafe
I should preface this by saying that these notes don’t apply to all restaurants. There are many places that follow the typical western restaurant experience and you won’t have to worry about any of this, but on the off chance you wander into a more traditional Hong Kong restaurant, you’ll be prepared and won’t be left shocked (and confused) by the whole experience.
In this post, I’m mostly talking about small restaurants, usually specializing in one thing. The space is small and most people just go to eat something tasty and move on with their days. You can also get a similar experience in Hong Kong’s cha chaang tang’s or Hong Kong Cafés. So here goes:
1. Order fast, eat quick & get out
All the rumours are true – there is no such thing as service in most Hong Kong restaurants. Restaurants expect you to know what you want to eat, to slurp it down quickly and then move on. The faster they turn tables, the more money they can make, at least so goes the thinking. Some restaurants will have a line out the door. Use this time to check out the menu so you know what you want. The last thing you want is an annoyed Chinese lady clucking her tongue at you because you don’t know what you want.
2. Be prepared to share tables
In an effort to maximize restaurant space, many places will ask you to share tables. They’ll ask you how many people and when theres space for your whole party, you pull up a stool with others. It’s a little awkward at first. Space is at a premium and you’ll probably end up knocking elbows with your neighbours.
3. Most places specialize in one thing
There are a lot of really small shops throughout Hong Kong who only specialize in one thing. If you want beef brisket noodles, you go to Kau Kee. If you want BBQ goose, head to Yat Lok. Shrimp roe noodles? Then you visit Lau Sum Kee. These places do one thing only and they do it well. It’s the only way they’re able to survive for so long. So go there and get what they specialize in.
4. Pay at the door and use cash
After you place your order, your order receipt will appear at your table, typically slipped between the table and the glass put on top of it. When you’re done, you don’t need to ask for the bill. Just take the slip of paper and pay at the door. There’s usually a person sitting behind the cashier (you can see the lady in the photo above). Also, make sure you have cash on hand. The vast majority of restaurants will only accept cash.
5. Chopsticks and other utensils to the side
You’ve ordered and your food comes to your table at lightening speeds. But where are all the utensils? They’re all in a built in drawer to the side and under the table. Open it and you’ll find chopsticks and anything else you may need. You really don’t need to talk to anyone.
However, this isn’t always the case. Sometimes the waitress will drop off a large soup bowl of hot water full of your bowls and chopsticks. Use this as an opportunity to rinse off your own cutlery before using it.
6. Bring your own napkins
A typical packet of tissue. They come in different scents too! Photo: Simon Law
Most restaurants don’t offer you napkins or if they do, they charge you for it. Be prepared and carry your own (you’ll probably need it for the washroom anyways). You can also use these napkins to wipe down your utensils and bowls before eating.
7. Squat toilets
Speaking of washrooms, most traditional places don’t have a western toilet or even a toilet at all. You’re much more likely to find a squat wet toilet and whether or not there is toilet paper is a toss up. Either hold it or go find a McDonald’s or tough it out. But if you do go use a squat toilet, it really isn’t all that bad. Bring your own paper just in case though!
8. Expect bones
Unlike most of western cuisine, much of Chinese cooking is on the bone. The belief is the bone gives extra flavour and the best parts of the meat are sucked right off the bone. I have memories of fighting for the boney bits of meat as a child. So don’t be shy and get in there. There’s no such thing as being polite (unless you’re in a fancy restaurant and in that case revert back to normal).
9. What service?
As previously mentioned, there really is no service. No one will come by to ask you how your meal is or if there is anything else that they can get you. The wait staff will leave you alone unless you need something from them.
10. Have an open mind
You see strange things in restaurant windows.
As cheesy as it may sound, dining out in Hong Kong means having an open mind. There are things sold and being eaten that are just strange to the western palate. I grew up around most of these dishes so I don’t mind most of the stranger aspects of the southern China diet, but it can get a little intimidating for those who didn’t grow up eating chicken feet or pork blood. The experience in itself can be uncomfortable and unnerving with tiny tables and so many people squished around them.
Dining out in Hong Kong can be an intimidating experience, especially if you don’t know what to expect. Hopefully with these times you’ll have a better idea of how to prepare yourself. Embrace the craziness and enjoy yourself. The food is definitely worth it!
Have you eaten in Hong Kong? Did you find it strange?
If you’re new to Pack Me To, welcome! Stay on top of my adventures on Facebook and follow me on Twitter & Instagram.
Wow! This would be such a culture shock to me, I’m so used to how English restaurants work and the service involved ect. I wouldn’t mind the table sharing, do people tend to talk with strangers or does everyone keep to themselves?
It is pretty different! Most people keep to themselves at the tables. I exchanged some smiles with people when I accidentally hit them with my chopsticks, but most people are in the eat some quick and get out mentality. No time for small talk.
So interesting – when I went to Hong Kong many years ago, I was staying with my best friend’s family who are all from Hong Kong and so I guess I was sheltered by the fact that they guided me on these customs but reading this post makes me realise how many of these facts I wouldn’t have known or realised if I hadn’t read this! Lots of useful tips and it’s worth knowing that they value a fast turnaround time so that we don’t end up inadvertently outstaying our welcome or causing offence!
The first couple meals I had in Hong Kong were with a family friend so that definitely helped to cushion the experience. Over time its easy to pick up the nuances of eating out though. It’s a lot of fun!
Haha so true. I once went to a hole in the wall noodle shop in HK that had a roll of toilet paper hinged to the underside of the table. I suppose the upside is I didn’t have to bring my own napkins. Regardless, the food is well worth any lack of service or amenities. Cheap and cheerful!
Whoa! What a strange sight. At least they were somewhat considerate and put it there for the guests! For sure, I think these kinds of more authentic experiences is what makes travel so interesting and fun. You never know what different customs you can run into.
Adelina, your post gave me second thoughts about Hong Kong. Are all the restaurants like that? I don’t feel like dining in these conditions.
No, not all restaurants are like this. There are plenty that follow western systems. These kinds of situations are typically found in hole in the wall, super traditional places. You can still experience Hong Kong without walking into any of these kind of restaurants.
Yessssss. These are great tips! I’ve found so many of these rules to be true for Vietnam as well! We got used to sharing tables with strangers and soon it wasn’t even weird anymore! And in Cambodia, we often went to an eatery where you washed your own utensils in large cup of hot water. I guess lucky that I came from China, because these things were no biggie to me. And D visited Hong Kong and Taiwan before we met, so he wasn’t too shocked either. We kept on saying to each other how all of this would be SO weird to westerners who have never stepped outside of the western world!
Thanks Anna! Yea, I think it would be really strange too. My ex who went with me on this trip really wasn’t prepared for it at all despite me verbally warning him before. He seemed a bit disturbed by it all. I think compared to the rest of Asia, Hong Kong is pretty tame when it comes to this stuff! A lot of it really isn’t all that bad.
Yes, these are spot on. When we were in Hong Kong, there was a 90 minute limit to your dining experience… and that was generous. They really did want you to order and get on.
Whoa, 90 minutes is definitely generous. I think the longest we stayed at a restaurant was an hour. At some places it was like 20 minutes!
How interesting! I had a friend visit Hong Kong and I guess she only went to the western style restaurants coz she never mentioned any of this.
It’s fascinating how different cultures can be.
It can definitely be intimidating walking into this kind of unfamiliar environment. There are plenty of restaurants that aren’t like these though.
It’s fascinating how attitudes and culture change in different countries about eating out – Greece you take all the time in the world, nibble some food here, take a bite there; UK seems to be more about enjoying the beers with food. I need to visit more countries for comparison 😛
That’s so true! There are situations in the Chinese culture where you take your time with your food, just not in these establishments. Different kinds of scenarios warrant different kinds of behvaiours all around the world. The trick is trying to figure it out!
Are you sure that the chopsticks and other utensils are to the side or under the table, or are dropped off with a large soup bowl of hot water? I thought they usually provide them separately, or sometimes even without the water and soup bowl.
Also, some restaurants still have squat toilets? I thought they’re already replaced.
As I wrote in my article, this is all based on my experiences in the restaurants I visited. However, not all places follow these practices. There are many places that follow the typical western restaurant experience and you won’t have to worry about any of the things I described. However, if you wander into a more traditional Hong Kong restaurant, this is the typical experience. And yes, there are definitely squat toilets. I used a handful while I was there. Most old buildings and restaurants haven’t bothered replacing them.
Very often the chop sticks will be in a tall glass or something similar.. If you get hot water use it to rinse the bowl and chopstick. It is very unusual to talk to anyone with whom you share a table. Don’t be put off by theses places, the food will be great if you follow the universal rule of patronising a busy place. Unfortunately these places are dying out because of high rents. Greedy landlords would rather let to a boutique
Yep. There is no service in the small restaurants. If you want service, pay for it at the larger outlets 🙂